Volume Eyelash Extensions: Premade vs. Handmade Fans

It’s no secret that lashing is an art form. From the micro-movements in your hand to the concentration required to isolate a tiny lash, creating beautiful and symmetrical sets can take months (even years!) to perfect. 

One of the most challenging techniques for new lash artists to learn is volume sets. While classic sets are 1:1, meaning each natural lash has a singular extension glued to it, volume sets use groups of extensions – known as fans – applied to a single natural lash. 

Today’s lash artists have the option of hand-making fans or purchasing premades. Both choices have their pros and cons. If you’re looking to learn more about them, keep reading – we’ll break down the differences between premade vs. handmade fans and how to use them. 

What are handmade volume fans? 

As the name suggests, handmade fans are created individually by the lash artist. Most commonly, this is done during the client’s appointment. To create them, the artist will take individual lashes, pinch them together in the shape of a fan and lightly dip it into adhesive. Once the fan is dipped in adhesive, it’s time to attach it to the base of the natural lash. If done correctly, the volume fan should be fully wrapped around the natural lash for the best retention. 

The trick with handmade (sometimes called promade) fans is not using too much adhesive. The most important thing with lash extensions is keeping the natural lashes healthy. As a professional, you must be mindful not to create a heavy fan that could jeopardize the integrity of the natural lash. 

Handmade fans require a high level of workmanship. It’s a skill that takes time and patience to master, so if you’re a new lash artist struggling with them, don’t stress out! While it’s essential to learn, other options, such as premade fans, can help while you’re mastering the craft. 

What are premade volume fans? 

Premade fans are made in advance by lash extension suppliers and are ready to use out of the package. The bases of the fans are either glue-bonded or heat-bonded. Typically, the negative stigma towards premade fans comes from artists’ experience with poor-quality glue-bonded fans. These fans are made by dipping them into adhesive and setting them to dry. When it’s time to apply to the client’s lashes, the fans must be dipped into adhesive a second time. Because of this, there is a higher chance that the glue-bonded premade fans may be too heavy for your client’s lashes. 

This is one of the reasons why Lash Reality uses heat-bonded fans. Instead of using adhesive, the base is sealed with heat, meaning they’re lighter and easier to maneuver than glue-bonded premades. With heat-bonded fans, you don’t need to worry about adding extra weight to your client’s natural lashes or dealing with adhesive clumps that make attachment harder. 

Premade vs. Handmade Fans

So, which is better? 

Ultimately, the choice comes down to preference. There are many misconceptions about premade fans. Some artists believe that premades take out the craftsmanship of handmade fans, or they’ve had negative experiences with low-quality premades. 

But similar to how lashing has grown and matured over the years, the premade fans on the market a few years back do not compare to the ones of today. Now, there are high-quality sources that provide lightweight and affordable volume fans.

The truth is that for newer artists or for those wanting to save time during appointments, premade volume fans can make lashing easier and revive an artist’s love for volume sets. 

At the same time, it’s important to consider why some artists stick to handmade fans. Firstly, volume training is an essential skill that all lash artists should learn regardless of premades. As mentioned, keeping natural lashes healthy is the top priority. 

Some lash artists may also prefer the flexibility that comes with handmade fans. No two natural lash lines are the same; some clients have sparse lash lines, while others have luscious lashes that go on for days. Each lash is also at varying stages in the growth cycle. Because of this, artists must carefully calculate the length and weight each lash can handle before applying the fans. Handmade fans, although not the easy way out, can allow for more customization. 

Cost is another factor to consider. The upfront cost for premade fans are slightly more expensive, which steers away some artists from trying them. However, despite the initial cost, premade fans can save money in the long run. With premade fans, artists save valuable time, which can be used to book more clients and thus, earning them more money.  

Are premade volume fans bad?

Premade volume fans aren’t inherently bad. For many artists, they save time and help develop their volume technique. The truth is, without proper technique and control, it won’t matter which you choose. That’s why it’s important to take time to perfect your craft and experiment with learning new techniques. At the end of the day, clients want to see their desired results – that includes gorgeous lashes, great retention, and natural lash health. If that can be achieved with premades, why not save the extra time?